Easy Riding

Story by Dustin A. Woods// Photos by Dustin A. Woods
January 1 2015

Vancouver Island is the perfect place for a relaxing getaway

vancouver travelAt a time when most of my friends have been forced to sell their motorcycles to finance engagement rings, baby strollers or patio furniture, my friend Grant is among my only contemporaries with the dedication and testicular fortitude to continue riding.

Not only did he teach me how to play “Wonderwall” on the acoustic guitar when we were in the eighth grade, he introduced me to the movie Easy Rider at the impressionable age of 13, which has stuck with me to this day.

A definitive film that explores the rise and fall of the hippie movement and encapsulates the counterculture of the 1960s, it has become something of a cinematic bible for the motorcyclist community. I will admit that I found the concluding sequences rather traumatizing at the time, and it took me years to understand the true depth of the political statements being made. However, I was immediately hooked – mesmerized by the artistic cinematographic style, enchanted by the musical score and utterly infatuated with the romance of escaping to the open road on two wheels.

Times They Are a Changing

Grant and I have long talked about setting out on a similar adventure together, but work schedules, mortgages, girlfriends and various other life obligations never allowed it until last summer, when we decided we were in dire need of a vacation. Both of us working in fast-paced, high-pressure and high-stress jobs, we were in search of balance, relaxation and perspective, rather than ill-gotten riches, narcotics or houses of ill repute.

Vancouver TravelWhenever I’m arranging a trip, I do my best to incorporate an item on my bucket list that requires crossing off. Rather than head to a place like Las Vegas or down to New Orleans to find ourselves a couple of Mardi Gras queens, we decided to visit the opposite end of the spectrum by exploring sleepy Vancouver Island to bask in the epic scenery and try our hand at surfing in Tofino.

Grant rips around Vancouver on a nimble little British café racer these days, but we didn’t feel it would best suit the distances we’d be travelling over the course of a week-long excursion. Favouring function over the form of two wildly uncomfortable choppers like Captain America and the Billy bike, we arranged a pair of brand new Hogs from Trev Deeley Harley-Davidson in Richmond. Unaccustomed to the larger stature of a V-twin bagger, Grant opted to ride a Street Bob with optional soft saddle bags and removable windscreen, while I chose the perennially bestselling Street Glide that featured upgraded highway pegs and heated hand grips, both of which came in handy.

Shake, Rattle and Let’s Roll

Grant was initially skeptical about the Harley; at the first traffic lights we stopped at he lifted his visor and inquired in all seriousness, “Is it supposed to be vibrating like this?” I laughed, assuring him all was normal and that the 103 c.i. V-twin would simply take some getting used to after years of riding a smaller displacement parallel twin.

LodgeAfter months of planning and anticipation, the trip officially kicked off once the bikes were safely stowed aboard the Spirit of British Columbia at the BC Ferry terminal in Tsawwassen en route to Swartz Bay. Rather than being turned away by proprietors of seedy motels and forced to sleep on the hard ground outdoors, we were welcomed with open arms and treated like royalty at luxury establishments in Victoria, such as the Parkside Hotel, and quality restaurants, including 10 Acres. All of the restaurant’s meat and organic produce is sourced from a local plot of land they farm, which consists of – you guessed it – 10 acres. Menu items are accentuated and paired with local wines and craft beers, of which there are many quality options to choose from in the area. After an incredible meal, we walked over to Big Bad Johns to experience Victoria’s casual nightlife. The best way to explain BBJ is merely to convey that there are peanut shells on the floor and bras on the ceiling. Enough said.

After touring around Dallas Road and having an amazing breakfast at Willie’s Bakery & Café, we set off to the west side of the island to explore the Sooke Potholes, cooling off in one of the many refreshing glacier-fed watering holes – albeit without the company of cute, naked hippie chicks, unfortunately.

My Mistress Seeks Shelter and a Single Malt

The skies then opened up for the first of many times over the course of the week. Vancouver Island’s temperate climate is free from humidity, making it perfect for touring comfortably with full riding gear, but make sure you pack quality wet-weather attire no matter what time of year you visit. You’ll need it. Visibility was limited as we crossed the Malahat en route to Parksville in the pouring rain, which was disappointing, since the steep cliffs and dense forests create an incredible view on a clear day. Thankfully, once we arrived at The Beach Club Resort, the bikes could dry off in the underground parking lot and we could thaw out in our expansive rooms, which featured all the comforts of home and then and then some. My condo in Toronto doesn’t have a king-sized bed, fireplace or spectacular oceanview.

The next morning, Grant was more complimentary of the Street Bob: “I feel like I’ve committed myself to one British lady, but now I’m on a week-long fling with an American woman, and I’ll be honest, it actually feels pretty good.” Setting off for Campbell River, we made a stop at Shelter Point Distillery. One of only two single-malt whisky distilleries in Canada, Shelter Point is a truly professional operation that follows the Scottish tradition but with Vancouver Island water and ingredients. Living off the land and making their own destiny by following their collective vision, president Patrick Evans and project manager Jason Marinus are passionate about their craft, and it shows. The first run of their whisky is still undergoing the aging process in oak barrels, but vodka is available now, and it’s delicious. They provided us with a bottle after a tour of their establishment, which we sampled once we arrived at the Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge on Quadra Island.

Doing the Time Warp

Taking the BC Ferry to Quadra Island is somewhat like taking a trip in a time machine. Touring the winding roads, we witnessed countless hippies and well-preserved classic vehicles frozen in time. The pace of life is slower and less hectic on Quadra Island, and it took some time for a couple of city slickers to become accustomed to, but it was also exactly what we needed. After spending the better part of the day exploring the island, we relaxed on the beach in the sunshine at the Rebecca Spit and then rode over to Quadra Island Golf to play a round. You may not associate golfing with a motorcycle ride, but we’d heard the new course was impressive and should be experienced. We rented clubs and they didn’t mind that we played in our jeans and motorcycle boots. We did get a few strange looks from fellow golfers though. Signs around the island warning of wildlife aren’t just for decoration and should be heeded by adjusting speed and riding formations accordingly. Over two days, we saw nearly a dozen deer on Quadra Island – one of which I would have collided with had I not initiated an unexpected and immediate emergency manoeuvre after it bounded out directly into the middle of the road.

Shaken but relieved, we arrived at the Gowlland Harbour Resort, where the only thing better than the view was the meal, which once again was sourced from local farms and painstakingly prepared by owner/operator DeAnn Bremner. A former fishing lodge, the resort has been renovated and revamped to provide a relaxing luxury getaway from civilization and some of the best meals you’ll ever consume. Truly. Coast to Coast to Find the Surf Riding south toward Parksville, we then headed west onto Highway 4 past Port Alberni on to Tofino, which is to date, without a doubt, the most enjoyable road I have ever ridden in my life. Measuring 163 km, the longest east-west road on the island snakes maniacally up, down and around, with each unpredictable turn bringing distinctive scenery unlike you’ve ever seen and the sweet smell of fresh air that is both vibrant and intoxicating. I felt genuinely sorry for the people sharing the road with us who were confined to four wheels and am shocked that the isolated outpost of Tofino has managed to stay a sleepy little town.

Soaked to the core after a long day of riding, we were greeted by the nearly embarrassingly attentive and welcoming staff at the Wickaninnish Inn, a luxurious and opulent hotel with an amazing restaurant located right on the ocean and surrounded by rugged, pristine beauty of indescribable proportions. The rain couldn’t dampen our spirits as we sipped on a cold, delicious Hoppin’ Cretin IPA from the local Tofino Brewing Company and enjoyed an amazing meal in The Pointe restaurant.

The next day, we checked into our own private condo at the Cox Bay Beach Resort, which featured ideal surf conditions right outside our door. Anna, our lovely and patient instructor from Bruhwiler Surf School (pretty much anyone who knows about surfing in Canada knows pro surfer Raph Bruhwiler), gave us a gruelling three-hour lesson. I can’t say I’ve ever enjoyed something so much that I was so terrible at, but even after gulping gallons of ice-cold salt water, I did manage to get up a few times and was still smiling so much that my face hurt. One more bucket list item successfully crossed off. Hey! Where Are the Rednecks with Shotguns? On the last day of our trip, we once again traversed Highway 4 across the island to Departure Bay in Nanaimo to catch the BC Ferry to Horseshoe Bay.

As we manoeuvred the bikes into a parking stall under Grant’s condo, he shut down the rumbling Street Bob, nodded in smiling approval and declared, “I think I need to buy a Harley.” Count him among the converted. We slept well, ate like kings, met plenty of friendly, genuine people and witnessed some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. It certainly wasn’t the most wild or debauched ride two unmarried guys have ever embarked on. In reality, our expedition was definitively the antithesis of Easy Rider in many ways. Thankfully, I’ve got more items on my bucket list that need crossing off.

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