A Canadian living in Vietnam takes his 250 Rebel on a hellish ride through loose sand, deep mud, dangerous construction, dense jungle and over mountain passes, just to say goodbye
Story and Photos by Dave Lemke
It was with a mixture of excitement and anxiety that I pulled my 1992 250 cc Honda Rebel out of my garage and into the small alleyway. Excited, because for the first time since setting foot in Vietnam, I would be making the journey of over 2000 kilometres between the country’s two main cities: Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. I was anxious for the exact same reasons I was excited.
Riding in Vietnam, it should be explained, alternates between being one of the most incredible experiences one can have on a bike and being perhaps the most dangerous and stupid thing you could possibly do. The statistics don’t lie: between 29 and 35 people die every day in road accidents. The stats do not reveal how many minor to major injuries also occur every day. Watching people drive in Vietnamese towns is like watching chaos theory put into practice. Watching it on the highways is the same, but sped up three times.
Rebel on the Road South
I have ridden a great deal in Vietnam, but a long solo ride is a serious undertaking, no matter how you slice it. Although I loved my Rebel, I knew that somewhere along the line, tarmac would change to sand, then gravel, and then – inevitably – mud. Yet I could think of no better way to say goodbye to this particular bike. The trip was going to be a swan song, as I had a buyer in Ho Chi Minh for the Rebel.
So I set off – the cold afternoon rain drizzled down, but all I could see was the road ahead.
The average speed in Vietnam is slow. The traffic dictates that in the cities or towns, 40 km/h is standard, and on the “open” highways, one can reach up to 70 km/h, but driving fast in Vietnam is a roll of the dice. All it takes is one dog running across the road, one bus swerving to pass in the opposite lane, one rock on a road already full of gravel and sand and rocks, to create certain disaster. What the law of average speed means, and how it relates to riding in Vietnam, is that a 300 km journey is a six-hour ride, minimum, if you do not stop; and not a cozy, comfortable six hours either. It’s usually an intense, highly concentrated effort. Including lunch and rest stops, 300 km takes up to eight hours. A full day’s ride will often cover only a small distance.
I was running a bit behind schedule and didn’t want to be on the roads at night, so I sped through countless towns and villages as the countryside began to open up. Outside of Cuc Phuong National Park, karst limestone cliffs loomed up, towering over fertile rice fields and lush jungle. Traffic was thankfully light, and I pressed on with only one stop for a very late lunch. As dusk fell, I entered a town in the middle of nowhere with a huge government-run hotel. It had a bed, a hot shower and even a restaurant; I was in heaven.
A Walk in the Park
Riding a motorbike means seeing the country up close and personal. Like anywhere, it’s a brilliant way to meet locals and get off the beaten track. Day one had been the total opposite of this, and I was determined to do better for day two. I had over 300 km to travel before reaching my final destination at Phong Nha – Ke Bang, Vietnam’s most renowned national park and home to the largest cave in the world.
An hour into my ride, I was struck by the change in landscape. Huge tracts of land had been cleared, leaving kilometres of upturned, reddish-brown soil. I was driving through one of Vietnam’s milk-producing regions, and hundreds of trucks transporting milk products lined the road. As fascinating as it was, the morning drizzle and the lack of trees made for hazardous driving. Cars and trucks shot out wet mud from their back tires, and the road was slick. Morning slid into afternoon, and as I came closer to Phong Nha, the sun came out, the sky opened up and the temperature rose eight degrees. I had driven through truck-filled mud mania into open highway, blue skies and a solid 25°C. With only 50 km to go, I had officially left the city and dense populations far behind me.
The late afternoon sun turned the rice fields and jungle into a golden neon green, and rivers, wide and deep, brought water to the land from the surrounding mountains. It took two days to get to, but I had entered Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park.
Scared Witless in the Jungle
After a day’s rest in the park, I was looking forward to an experience unparalleled in Vietnam. The Ho Chi Minh highway splits here, one road heading east and through populated areas, whereas the western road, which I took, was 300 km of pure wilderness, carving its way through the heart of the national park. I left civilization and drove into dense jungle, with immense roadside drop-offs and thick towering overgrowth. As I began to climb the first pass, the rain and fog rolled in and immediately covered everything. The temperature dropped to 12 or 13 degrees. Although I was dressed properly, it was still cold, and when the bike’s spark plugs began to misfire, I knew I was in deep trouble. Never in my time motorcycling had the situation become this dire – alone, on a dangerous road, with the bike malfunctioning. If I stopped, the bike may very well have not started again, so I dropped it into first and opened the throttle, over-revving the bike – forcing it to keep the power on. Many times it nearly stalled, and after more than an hour of cold wetness, with my concentration stretched to the max on the few feet I could see in front of the bike, I was almost spent. For the first time in my riding life, I was scared. Minutes crawled by, as did the odometer. I was going nowhere fast.
At some point, the rain stopped and the fog cleared a bit. The warmer it got, the better the bike began to perform. I was elated to click into second and third gears. I had reached the halfway point of my day’s ride, but it was already mid-afternoon. I had not stopped to eat, go to the bathroom or sightsee. What was supposed to be the best day of the trip had already turned out to be, easily, my most challenging day as a rider. After a necessary pit stop, I carried on, passing through inspiring natural landscapes. The clouds continued to billow in and over the mountains. A few times I saw what I was missing – deep ravines covered in lush green, with rolling mountain tops all the way into Laos. But as soon as the view would present itself, the mist swallowed it up again. At around 4 p.m., I approached the park’s edge and the miraculous happened; I broke through another rain- and fog-filled pass into a clearing of blue skies, sun and 28-degree weather. Laughter broke from my lips. What a way to end the day. I hung all my wet gear over the bike and savored a slow drive into Khe Sanh.
Out of the Haze, and into Coffee Country
By the time the fog dissipated the next morning and the sun came out, I was already down to shorts and a T-shirt. The entire morning was perfect – the road, mostly devoid of traffic, wound its way along a large river, popping in and out of small villages with children running and waving. I swerved occasionally to avoid chickens that darted across the road, and slowed for herds of water buffalo ambling along. Neon-blue skies were punctuated by white clouds, and the ride was characterized by the pure joy of being in the moment; I had missed out on the Phong Nha western road, but had struck unexpected gold here. I rode past interlocking lakes and some of the region’s massive hydro power plants. The hours flew past – and even though I did not arrive at the day’s destination until the sun had gone down, I was wired from such an exhilarating ride. It was just beautiful.
The next day, I entered the country’s coffee- and tea-growing regions. Riding in the mountains and along semi-dried riverbeds reminded me of being in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains. I had heard about a superb track that led into Kon Tum, my day’s destination, where the Ho Chi Minh Highway branches off. One could ride the normal route AH 17 or take the QL 14C south at Plei Can. I was told it passed through untouched pine forests and skirted a national park that was shared with Cambodia (the thrill of being chased by border security was also enticing).
I headed south on 14C around 2 p.m., and initially, the road was brilliant. I was riding through rubber-tree plantations and picturesque forest when the road literally…