Braving the Beartooth

Story by Liz Jansen// Photos by Liz Jansen
March 1 2015

High elevations, scenic look-offs and a seriously twisty road make this National Scenic Byway a motorcyclist’s treasure

Are you Liz?” Almost two weeks into a six-week solo trip and 3000 kilometres from home, I wasn’t expecting to meet up with anyone I knew, let alone at the top of a desolate mountain pass. Headed south from Red Lodge, Montana, I’d pulled into the gravel lookout near the summit of Beartooth Pass. Loaded with camping equipment and gear for extended travel, I called on my slow-speed skills as I picked my way across the uneven rocky surface amidst dozens of bikes, heading for a clearing at the far end of the lot. Braced against the cold and wind at an elevation of over 3300 metres, I was focused on stopping my tall bike safely and dismounting, without a tip-over.

View from Chief Joseph BywayBalancing precariously against the gusts, I smiled blankly at the handsome stranger, standing beside his friend and their parked bikes. He was the husband of a good friend, and although I hadn’t met him yet, I was headed for their home, where I’d been invited to spend the night. The guys were returning from the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally and, like everyone else there, had stopped to take in the incredible view.

Elevation aside, the panorama from this spot, where snow can close the road in July, is absolutely breathtaking. Descending into the surrounding wilderness envelops you in unequivocal beauty between earth and sky, and connects you to the land, its history and its culture. Despite noble efforts, the sheer power of nature has overridden any attempt man has made to tame it.

The roads in these wilds of northwestern Wyoming and southern Montana create an exhilarating sensory experience. You can access the area from one of three gateways: Cody, Wyoming – which was my starting point – Red Lodge, Montana, or Cooke City, Montana. My route took me north from Cody, via Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and the Beartooth Highway, to Red Lodge. Here I turned around, returning via the Beartooth, this time continuing west through Cooke City and on to Yellowstone National Park.

Legend of the West

Riding down the roadA mecca for riders, Cody still embodies the spirit of the Wild West. No one symbolizes it better than William F. (Buffalo Bill) Cody, for whom the town is named. Attracted to the area in the late 1800s by the abundance of fish and game, and the potential for agricultural land development, he invested in projects that he hoped would bring economic growth to the West.

Walk through the doors of the landmark Irma Hotel and back into the Old West to enjoy a meal or relive day’s past in the Silver Saddle Saloon. Built in 1902 and named after Buffalo Bill’s youngest daughter, the hotel reputedly housed famous personalities such as Frederic Remington, Annie Oakley and Calamity Jane.

A few blocks south, fascinating artifacts and gripping tales in the Buffalo Bill Museum move you back in time to when the Plains Indians lived in harmony with the land, its resources and the cycles of nature. The subsequent turbulent history is chronicled through the life, times and strength of Buffalo Bill. Despite shifting financial and personal fortunes, he remained optimistic, willing to invest his heart and soul in his dream. The 25,000 people in attendance at Buffalo Bill’s funeral on January 10, 1917, were a testament to the spirit he personified and ignited in others – a spirit which lives on to this day.

You’ll leave Cody with a new appreciation for the land and its early inhabitants as you ride north out of town on Highway 120. The wide-open plains and endless blue sky absorb you into a timeless space, which looks much as it did hundreds of years ago, minus the buffalo. How inhabitants were able to survive here is mind-boggling, as is the beauty, which is felt, not just seen.

Flight for Freedom

AView of Beartooth Montanalthough you can continue north, to Red Lodge on Hwy 120, you’ll want to turn west 27 kilometres down the road onto Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming 296. It’s named after the chief of the Nez Perce, who along with 800 members of his tribe, was fleeing to Canada along this route, away from the U.S. Cavalry, which was trying to force them onto a reservation. After 13 battles and more than 2100 kilometres, and only about 60 kilometres from the Canadian border, Chief Joseph was forced to surrender, imparting this famous quote: “Hear me, my chiefs, I am tired. My heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.”

The straight, placid entrance is deceiving. An overlook, not too far in, offers an overlook, not too far in, offers a scenic view and an understated memorial to Chief Joseph. Then, as soon as you crest the hill, the road gets really exciting for 76 paved kilometres, until you reach US 212 and the Beartooth Highway. Fast, open sweepers combine with technical switchbacks to take you across the Shoshone Forest. Framed by the Beartooth Mountains and the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River on the north, and the Absaroka Range and North Absaroka Wilderness to the south, the scenery is stunning in every direction. Most of the road surface is smooth pavement; however, my heart was in my mouth a couple of times when nests of tar snakes appeared as I was heeled over in corners. Temperatures were in the 30s, so they were very soft and squishy and gave my ride the wobbles. Nature is always trying to reclaim the land, so watch for frost heaves and crumbling shoulders, especially as there are sheer drop-offs and few guardrails. Two intense sections of switchbacks ratchet up the adrenalin and can be hypnotizing. Periodic overlooks give you a chance to get off your bike, breathe in the air and soak up the surroundings.

As fantastic as it is, however, it’s only a primer for the epic ride you’ll have on the Beartooth Highway, named after a sharp spire that juts from the Beartooth Plateau. Surrounded by wilderness, the highway zigzags through the Custer, Gallatin and Shoshone National Forests, above which rise 20 peaks reaching over 3650 metres – the tips of their northern facets covered in glacial ice. At the end of Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, turn east, and hang on. The Gateway to Yellowstone As automobiles became de rigueur in the 1920s, Yellowstone National Park and area became a popular destination. Guest ranches, lodges and hunting camps enticed visitors, drawn by the scenery and wildlife. They needed a way to get there, however, and thus the Beartooth Highway was constructed between 1931 and 1936. Originating 39 kilometres to the west in Cooke City, the gateway to Yellowstone, the highway dips down and spends most of its 108 kilometres in Wyoming, before returning to Montana and Red Lodge, its eastern terminus.

Almost immediately after entering the Beartooth from Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, the road climbs steeply and begins snaking up the daunting mountain through several 270-degree turns. Soon you’ll rise above the treeline and the riding will get even more incredible. With these elevations, you’ll have a rare opportunity to experience pristine tundra, alpine landscapes, glacial lakes and lush forests, all within a few kilometres. Ignore the sign that says Top of the World – the best is yet to come. Plan to stop and take in the grandeur at one of the turnouts and definitely near the summit where a short gravel lane on the west side of the road takes you to an epic view. It was here on the return trip that I met up with my new friends. While the descent is significantly less steep, the scenery is every bit as spectacular, with more switchbacks with sheer drop-offs, more alpine plateaus and small glacial lakes. But don’t get complacent, as the road takes on a final volley of sharp turns on the steep descent into Red Lodge. The valley, in which Red Lodge sits, was originally Crow country, serving as the tribe’s summer quarters.

The town was established in 1884 with the discovery of coal in the nearby hills, and attracted hundreds of immigrants from Finland, Scotland, Ireland, Italy and Eastern Europe. In its heyday, 20 saloons watered the burgeoning population and created a vibrant and colourful history. With the decline of coal, bootlegging became a prime employer, giving way to tourism, recreation and ranching. Restaurants and trendy shops now occupy the original buildings on the town’s main street. Wander back and explore the historically rich neighbourhoods, which retain the frontier flavour and original buildings. A self-guided walking tour will take you to the site of the Sundance Kid’s 1897 bank robbery, past Victorian mansions and the Theatorium, decorated with marble statues imported from Italy.

The Café Regis restaurant was the best place I found to eat. Accommodations of all types are plentiful. I camped just north of town, in a wooded site beside Rock Creek, just south of Moon Beam Lane. As luck would have it, my neighbours from the campsite in Cody had decided to stop here as well. After a night that was too short, it was time to head south again over Beartooth Pass, this time continuing on to Yellowstone, where sunshine, blue skies, warm temperatures and superlative riding awaited. Watch Your Step As fantastic as the experience is, a few words of caution are in order. This terrain is very rugged and not for the faint of heart. Nature rules and the mountains are continuously reclaiming the road. The pavement on the Beartooth Highway was very good, but expect crumbling shoulders – and construction. Major construction was underway at a glacial lake, creating challenging riding and 30-minute delays. It’s a beautiful area to get stopped in though, and a chance to get to know your neighbours. The weather can be wild and unpredictable, with sudden and dramatic temperature changes.

The Beartooth Pass is generally plowed open by Memorial Day, although snow can close the road in June, and snow in July is not uncommon. It closes in mid-October. Even if you’re not really sensitive to changes in elevation, you’ll notice the lack of oxygen at higher levels. Fill your gas tank before leaving Cooke City, Cody or Red Lodge, as there’s only one small gas station in between, and make sure your brakes are in good shape. Plan around the annual Beartooth Rally, usually the third weekend in July, when thousands of bikes swarm the mountains. As with me, your first, or even second visit, will not be your last.

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